VACHERON CONSTANTIN
AND THE HALLMARK OF GENEVA

The ultimate quality certification
A guarantee of provenance, know-how, resilience and accuracy

VACHERON CONSTANTIN AND THE HALLMARK OF GENEVA

HALLMARK OF GENEVA SECRETS

HALLMARK OF GENEVA
CRITERIA

MATERIALS

  • Components made of polymers are not permitted.
  • For new materials, the technical committee of the Hallmark of Geneva reserves the right to adapt at any time the criteria according to technical innovations in this field.

SHAPED PARTS
AND SUPPLIES

  • Shaped parts and supplies must have polished chamfers, straight-grained sides and smoothed down or leveled faces.

  • Screw heads have to be polished or circular satin-brushed with chamfered edges and slots.

  • The domed screw heads must be polished or circular satin-brushed.

  • Coloring is permitted providing the finish conforms.

  • The end of the screw foot must be polished and have no trace of its detachment.

  • The flat or domed ends of pins must be polished.

  • All parts that are not mentioned in the technical regulations must comply with the requirements laid down in the homologation of the caliber.

STRIP SPRINGS AND JUMPER SPRINGS

  • Wire springs are not accepted.

  • All edges of springs and jumper springs must be chamfered except for the functional parts.

  • Any operation on a strip spring of 0.18 mm thickness or less that could be detrimental to the functional stiffness of the spring may be waived.

  • All strip or jumper springs must have a heel.

BASEPLATES, PLATES
FOR ADDITIONAL MECHANISMS AND BRIDGES

Baseplates, plates for additional mechanisms (modules) and bridges must have:

  • Polished chamfers.

  • Straight-grained sides.

  • Circular-graining or finishes that eliminate all machining traces.

  • Smoothed-down bridge supports.

  • Polished bevels in holes and recesses.

  • Polished sinks for jewel holes.

The tops of bridges must be finished with Geneva stripes or any other decoration that eliminates machining marks.

JEWELING

  • All movements must be provided on the train and escapement with jewel bearings having polished holes. On the bridge side the jewels must be semi-brilliant with polished sinks. An endstone in the baseplate for the center-wheel is not required.

  • Movements with shock-absorbing devices are permitted.

  • For the rest of the movement and additional plates any jewel of good quality or other bearing is permitted.

WHEEL TRAIN

The wheels of the going train

- Must be chamfered above and below.
- In wheels 0.15 mm thick or less, a single chamfer is allowed.
- They must have polished sinks.
- For wheel plates 0.15 mm thick or less, a single sink is allowed.
- The shape and position of the sink are at the discretion of the applicant provided the sink is polished.
- The crossing, hub and rim of the wheels must be chamfered.
- The functional parts of the pivot-shanks and pivots, including their faces must be burnished.
- The other parts must be finished so as to eliminate all machining traces.
- The pinion faces must be finished so as to remove all machining traces, without rounding off their edges and/or flattening out burrs. Polishing, grinding or any other finishing operations are acceptable provided they do not contravene the foregoing requirements.
- The pinion leaves must be polished without modifying the functional part of their tips.

Wheels and gears that are not in the going train

- Must be finished so as to remove all machining traces.
- Teeth must be polished if the material used allows it.
- Wheels with crossings must be finished in the same way as the going-train wheels.
- The ratchet-wheel and the crown-wheel must be decorated so as to remove all machining traces and must have chamfered and polished teeth.

ESCAPEMENT

For movements with a total diameter exceeding 18 mm

  • The thickness of the escape-wheel must not exceed 0.16 mm.
  • The locking-faces of its teeth must be polished.

For movements with a total diameter exceeding 18 mm

  • The thickness of the escape-wheel must not exceed 0.13 mm.
  • The locking-faces of its teeth must be polished.

The angle described by the lever is to be limited by fixed banking-walls to the exclusion of pins or studs.

STUDS AND
ADJUSTMENT INDEXES

  • The balance-spring may be pinned up with a grooved plate having a rounded collar and cap.

  • A mobile stud holder is acceptable so long as it can be locked in position.

  • Split or fitted indexes are allowed with a holding system except in extra-thin calibers where the holding system is not required.

  • Balance-wheels adjusted by variable inertia are acceptable.

ADJUSTMENT SYSTEM

  • Adjustment means fitting, starting and adjusting the spring balance

  • Balance-spring fitting (pinning up to the stud and collet and counting the spring) may be undertaken outside the Canton of Geneva.

  • The balance-spring must not be glued in position; it may however be welded.

WATCH EXTERIOR (CASING-UP) CRITERIA

To extend the workmanship required and applied to the components of the movement, the Hallmark of Geneva lays down specific conditions of manufacture and finish for the parts that connect the movement to the exterior (braces, brace screws, casing rings, levers, setting levers, etc.).

This approach consolidates the idea of a product conceived and designed in its entirety. The finishes selected also have a functional purpose.

CASED-UP WATCH CERTIFICATION

To meet the expectations of the customer, the Hallmark of Geneva stipulates a thorough examination of the cased-up watch. This functional test certifies the manufacturer’s guarantee to the customer.

Precision

The brands have to submit their watches to a simulation of the standard operation of a watch during a week. At the end of the seven days the time shown by the watch must not have deviated by more than one minute.

Water-resistance

A watch that is claimed to be water-resistant must withstand the minimum pressure defined by the regulations as well as the pressure claimed by the brand.

Power-reserve

The watch must have a power-reserve at least equal to that claimed by the brand.

Functional tests

The test must show that all the functions of the watch work properly.

THE HALLMARK OF GENEVA WORKSHOP
AT VACHERON CONSTANTIN

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GENEVA MODELS